Le Clos (0.75 L)

From granite-based soils across the river from Hermitage, the medium to full-bodied 2016 Saint Joseph le Clos is a tremendous effort. Pastry crust notes frame blueberry fruit in this elegant and spicy red, which seems almost modern in style through the mid-palate. Then its granite roots take charge, delivering notes of crushed stone and a sense of austerity on the savory finish. It looks to have about two decades of pleasure ahead.